Coastal Dynamics

Objectives

1. Understand the basic concepts and principles involving coastal morphodynamics, the major forcers agents in coastal environments, namely waves, tides, wind and tidal currents.
2. Characterize the different types of coasts, especially rocky coasts and beaches. Understand the formation and dynamics of deltas, estuaries and lagoons.
3. Realize the consequences of the greenhouse effect and climate change on the coastline. Evaluate the solutions and implications of coastal defences.

Program

1. INTRODUCTION
- Littoral definition
- Terminology

2. Marine currents
- Winds and currents
- Currents and thermoregulation of earth

3. WAVES
- Generation and characteristics
- Wave breaking, refraction, diffraction and reflection
- Storm surges
- Tsunamis

4. TIDES
- Tides generation forces
- Types of tides

5. SEA-LEVEL CHANGE

6. ROCKY COASTS
- Definition and evolution of rocky coasts
- Cliff morphology
- Resilience, weathering and erosion of the cliffs
- Coastal landslides

7. BEACHES
- Definition
- Beach types
- Coastal dunes

8. DELTAS, ESTUARIES AND LAGOONS
- Deltaic processes and evolution
- Estuarine processes and evolution
- Lagoons processes and evolution

9. EVOLUTION OF THE COST LINE
- Greenhouse effect
- Sea-level rise effects

10. The protection of the coasts
- Types of protection
- Collateral effects of coastal protection

Teaching Methodologies

The unit will be taught under b-learning, through a combination of classroom activities, laboratory and fieldtrips, with activities supported by asynchronous learning management platform (Moodle) available at the University of the Azores.

Lectures - Based on the presentation of diagrams/pictures illustrative of the objects, concepts and processes being analysed.

Theoretical-practical class – Observation of coastal sediments and its textural characterization. Exercises on wave mechanics and sedimentary balance.

Fieldtrips - To the coast for observation and measurement of geologicalsettings/geomorphological/dynamic paradigms and to observe coastal defences.

Evaluation based on the achievement of a final exam, with a theoretical component (70%) and practice (30%).

Bibliography

- BIRD, E., 2000. Coastal geomorphology, an introduction. Wiley, 322p.
- CARTER, R.W.G., 1999. Coastal Environments. An introduction to the physical, ecological and cultural systems of coastlines. Academic Press, 617p.
- DAVIS, R.A. Jr. and FITZGERALD, D.M., 2004. Beaches and coasts. Blackwell, 419p. KOMAR, P.D., 1998.
- Beach processes and sedimentation. Prentice Hall, 544p. PETHICK, J., 1996. An introduction to coastal geomorphology. Arnold, 260p. 
- SUNAMURA, T., 1992. Geomorphology of rocky coasts. Wiley 302p. Prentice
- Hall THURMAN, H., 1997. Introductory oceanography. Prentice Hall,544p.
- TRENHAILE, A.S., 1997. Coastal dynamics and landforms. Oxford, 366p.